Sunscreen has proven to be quite a controversial topic as of late, with conversations online and IRL ranging from how necessary it is to use (spoiler alert: very) and the chemical versus mineral debate to the overall difference in effectiveness of American sunscreens versus European and Korean formulations.
Skincare aficionados and suncare advocates alike are all too familiar with how regulations have created key differences between sunscreens in different regions of the world. But are some of these different formulas better than the others? With the help of board-certified dermatologists Dendy Engelman, MD, FAAD, and Bobby Buka, MD, we dug in to separate the fact from the fiction. Read on to learn more.
Meet the Expert
- Dendy Engelman, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon based in New York City.
- Bobby Buka, MD, JD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of The Dermatology Specialists.
Why Aren’t Certain Sunscreen Ingredients Allowed in the U.S.?
In the United States, sunscreen is regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as a drug. Other nations and regions regulate it as a cosmetic, thus allowing more ingredients to be included in the formulas. Lawmakers in Washington have called out the notably outdated guidelines imposed by the FDA and have advocated for additional filters to be allowed. Just last summer, Rep. Alexandra Ocasio-Cortez (D-NY) encouraged citizens to contact their congresspeople and ask them to “break through some of the regulatory barriers at the FDA and fund public research so that we can all enjoy the filters that develop out of the scientific process.”
Currently, 16 filters are approved in the U.S.; by comparison, the European Union allows 34. A new filter has not been approved in the United States since 1996.
Are Korean and European Sunscreens Better?
Taking all of this into consideration, it’s easy to understand why many are of the opinion that Korean and European sunscreens are simply better than their American counterparts. Engelman notes that Korean sunscreens and “skincare, in general, has more advanced technology and ingredients that make the sunscreens easier to apply and leave less of a white cast. They also can have additional skincare benefits within the formulation, not just SPF.”
“Chemical active ingredients approved in the U.S. are—individually—not as effective at protecting against UVA rays,” adds Buka. “Therefore, several chemical sunscreens need to be combined to deliver the same UVA protection that some active ingredients can do alone in other countries. For example, bemotrizinol is a chemical sunscreen that is not yet FDA-approved (expected in late 2025) but is available in most countries outside the U.S. Its peak absorption covers both UVB and UVA rays as a stand-alone active.”
American Sunscreens Still Work
But make no mistake: American sunscreens can still be effective and are still great options for consumers in the U.S. “Physical American sunscreens are broad spectrum, reflecting both UVA and UVB rays,” explains Buka. “Chemical American sunscreens get to the same endpoint as sunscreens manufactured abroad; they just have to contain more than one chemical active to get there. For example, we combine avobenzone and octocrylene–two chemical blockers–to deliver stable, broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection.”
Essentially, it’s still possible to achieve adequate sun protection from American sunscreens—it just requires a bit more effort. Buka elaborates on how we can maximize the impactfulness of American sunscreens, pointing out that “if you choose a chemical sunscreen (usually because these are less chalky and feel better on the skin), make sure there is more than one active ingredient.” He recommends Fig. 1’s Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 and anything from Dune Suncare, praising the latter’s “high-performance physical and chemical blockers [formulated] in a way that maximizes the benefits of each.” Engelman is a fan of Image Skincare’s Daily Prevention Pure Mineral Hydrating Moisturizer SPF 30 “because it has an all-mineral sunscreen filter and is super hydrating on the skin while remaining weightless without leaving a white cast.”
Where to Get European and Korean Sunscreen
If you’re not planning any international trips in the near future, fear not: You can still buy European and Korean sunscreen products online. Yes Style is a great source for Korean skincare that ships to the United States. (They carry the beloved Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun, highly recommended by Buka.) The Isdin Eryfotona Actinia Ultralight Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50+ is a fave of Engelman’s; She praises the Spanish brand’s 100 percent mineral sunscreen for its lightweight consistency and how it helps to repair existing sun damage. Other sites, like Euro Pharmas and Care to Beauty, are great places to pick up international sunscreens, including the highly popular and dermatologist-recommended La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Fluid SPF 50+.
The Final Takeaway
While U.S. standards for sun protection within consumer products have a long way to go compared to European and Korean guidelines, they still yield viable options if you’re looking for substantial ways to defend against the harmful UV rays that cause skin cancer and premature signs of aging. Dermatologists agree that there are plenty of domestic and international options accessible to U.S. customers looking to up their suncare game.