On a sunny afternoon in mid-June, I waited amid a crowd clad in cowboy hats, pink bandanas, and referential graphic tees for Gov Ball’s arguably most anticipated act. While she wasn’t a headliner, Chappell Roan was (and still is) the moment, and everyone kept their eyes on the stage to catch her latest drag-inspired look reveal. When she emerged from a giant apple dressed as the Statue of Liberty, it went instantly viral as true fashion history in the making.
What had been playing on my AirPods on the ride over? Charli XCX’s Brat, of course. It was a given that the hyperpop icon’s latest album would be everywhere (and so Julia), but few predicted the sheer explosion of chartreuse, Y2K wraparound sunglasses, and general 365-party-girl antics that would follow in short order. At the same time, Sabrina Carpenter (another 4:45 p.m. Gov Ball performer–turned–festival favorite) was starting a chart war with herself—Short n’ Sweet singles “Espresso” and “Please Please Please” have repeatedly replaced each other at number one—while her cheeky take on hyperfemininity began to catch on as a fresh answer to the coquette aesthetic.
All the above artists are decidedly different, but this year’s definitive pop trifecta—and many of their peers—serve as proof of our moment’s playful, unapologetic vibe shift. Read on to learn all about the new breed of pop icon, from why we’re all craving a little chaos to the key components of their aesthetics.
From Curation to Chaos
Just a year ago, pop culture and its adjacent fashion trends focused on some of the biggest icons of our time. From Taylor Swift and Beyoncé’s latest tours to the Barbie movie premiere, 2023’s biggest events celebrated larger-than-life figures who have shaped our sense of style and self. After years of smaller pandemic-era events, we collectively turned to our old favorites for a festive return to being out and about (and dressed for the occasion, too).
While Swift and Beyoncé are as relevant as ever, it was only a matter of time before Gen Z crowned its own pop royalty. Sure enough, 2024 started with a bang as Reneé Rapp gave a series of unfiltered interviews on the Mean Girls press tour. Fans jokingly expressed hopes that she’d never get media training as she ranted about a bus touring company owner named Buddy, proudly declared herself “ageist,” and had Bowen Yang introduce her as “little lesbian intern Reneé” in an SNL sketch. From the moment she hit the mainstream, the triple threat was both beloved and divisive, giving us all a taste of the wider movement to come.
Come April, Coachella marked a turning point toward pop’s new guard. Rapp—whose signature style comprises oversize silhouettes, leather, and a plethora of statement jewelry—performed in front of a giant scissors set piece, complete with OG chaotic pop star Kesha as a special guest to sing a version of “Tik Tok” that roasted now-disgraced P. Diddy. Roan had just wrapped a stint as Olivia Rodrigo’s opener on the sold-out Guts world tour, but she held her own in the desert in a Lady Miss Kier–inspired butterfly costume as she declared herself “your favorite artist’s favorite artist.” Fresh off the release of “Espresso,” Carpenter performed to an audience that was almost as mesmerized as Barry Keoghan (if you know, you know), while Doja Cat’s showstopping headline set was a triumphant fête of her evolution from pop star to avant-garde, transcendent icon. Offstage, Billie Eilish launched her Hit Me Hard and Soft era with a listening party that included the first snippet of the boldly sapphic single “Lunch.”
This year’s festival circuit has continued to boost Rapp, Roan, and Carpenter, but Charli XCX has been this summer’s wild card with her trajectory from longtime underrated queen of hyperpop to defining cultural icon. While limited fans have experienced Brat live through a handful of shows and DJ sets, the star’s Sweat tour with Troye Sivan doesn’t kick off until September 14, but that hasn’t stopped her new music (and its general vibes) from permeating every club, house party, and social feed. Even if you haven’t danced to “360,” learned the “Apple” choreo, or heard Charli work it out with Lorde on the “Girl, So Confusing” remix (or get spicy with Eilish on the “Guess” remix), you definitely have seen an uptick in “brat green,” accompanied by party-ready accessories and an unabashed play-hard mentality. 2023’s Barbie summer built upon years of lead time, but Brat summer ushered in a moment of feral euphoria that skyrocketed organically before any brands could catch on.
Chaos as Control
The past few years have leaned into fashion both as self-expression and as a grounding tool of control. The pandemic’s explosion of color and pattern brought joy and escapism to otherwise-dark times, while 2023’s girlhood-inspired trends (from Barbiecore to mermaid to coquette) reclaimed femininity as power. Now pop’s chaotic new guard is making the case that in a world of so much uncertainty, the least we can do is have some fun.
All eyes have been on Gen Z for a while, but the rise of Roan, Carpenter, Charli, et al., is one of the first times the generation’s mentality has spoken for itself on a mainstream level. (It’s worth noting that Charli is 32, though her Brat era is resonating as much with teens and “real intelligent” mid-twentysomethings as with her existential millennial peers.) As Gen Z has come of age, their nihilism has evolved from angsty to playful: A bit of delusional creativity feels like a refreshing take on the idea that nothing matters.
Roan, Carpenter, and Charli especially have achieved influence far beyond their projects and personas in recent months, thanks to a combo of distinctive style and messaging. When U.S. Vice President Kamala Harris launched her presidential campaign in July, Charli declared her “brat,” tapping into a wave of memes that had started weeks before with an edit of the politician’s most quotable moments set to “Von Dutch.”
A new Brat summer phase ensued, complete with green “Kamala” tees on Fire Island as well as viral videos of political news anchors unpacking the youth-led movement. Roan—whose debut album, The Rise and Fall of a Midwest Princess, references her Missouri roots—has created a brand that blends Americana with unapologetically queer elements, all while uplifting those around her. Local drag artists open her headline shows, and the star famously used her Gov Ball Statue of Liberty moment to decline a White House pride performance invitation, in solidarity with oppressed groups.
Carpenter has intersected less with explicit politics than the other two pop queens of the moment, but her aesthetic and success hold significance within her personal trajectory as well as feminine stereotypes at large. Until she joined Swift’s Eras Tour, the public primarily knew her as the girl Joshua Bassett dated after leaving Rodrigo, which had led to perceptions that the star details in “Because I Liked a Boy.” Notably, Carpenter and Rodrigo have seemingly made up—there are even rumors of a collaboration on the horizon—plus the “Feather” singer has powerfully reclaimed her femininity and sexuality. The artist’s sweet, cheeky outfits have the sartorial bite of sour candy, while her choreo and risqué lyrics (“Nonsense” outros, anyone?) complete the vibe for a “hot and unbothered” persona that few can forget.
How to Dress Like Pop’s New Trifecta
After years of consistent work, Roan, Carpenter, and Charli have used chaotic energy to their advantage to become cultural icons—complete with signature style elements that are now trends in their own right. Ahead, we’ve broken down how to emulate each defining pop star’s aesthetic, complete with product picks to shop.
Midwest Princess Chic
Chappell Roan’s onstage style comprises a range of mostly drag-inspired looks, but she also has a few recommended concert dress codes that she cycles between: “Pink Pony Club,” “Mermaid,” “My Kink Is Karma,” and “Midwest Princess”. When it comes to bringing some Roan-inspired style into your life, you can pull from any of these, but a TL;DR on the overall aesthetic is Americana with a queer twist. Blend camo and denim with a little sparkle, some hyperfemininity, and cheeky nods to drag and kink to confidently embrace a multifaceted, unpredictable persona.
Powerful Pinup
There’s been a lot of reclaimed femininity in the air recently between Barbiecore, ballet inspo, and the coquette aesthetic, so it makes perfect sense that Sabrina Carpenter has escalated to style icon status at this moment: She basically dresses like a Bratz doll, after all. The pop star embraces elements of flirtiness and girlhood in her signature look, but she always remains in full control. Getting the Carpenter look is all about mini lengths, sweet details, and exaggerated platforms, then combining them in a way that feels playful, a bit retro, and true to you.
365 Party Girl
The Brat summer aesthetic has brought Charli XCX’s indie sleaze–meets–ultramodern club kid aesthetic to the forefront, inspiring going-out looks galore as well as the audacity to work some party-girl elements into daytime style. While the neon chartreuse shade that’s earned the name “Brat green” is the easiest way to tap into this look, other staples include wraparound sunglasses (the kind of styles you can find at a gas station), sheer everything, form-fitting silhouettes, and a healthy dose of leather.
How Long Will the Chaos Last?
Trends come and go faster than ever these days, so it surely won’t be long before we’re obsessing over another crop of influential figures and aesthetics. That being said, the unapologetic “messy girl” energy we’ve been seeing among today’s defining pop icons feels bigger than any one artist, instead representing more of a generational mentality. Even as new stars break into the mix, the spontaneity and originality are here to stay.
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