I remember receiving my first true luxury skincare product like it was yesterday. I was in college, and a beauty blogger friend gave me a bottle of Dior Capture Totale Le Serum. The baby pink bottle was probably one of the fanciest thing’s I’d ever owned, and it made me feel like a real grown up. The anti-aging serum didn’t really make sense for my 20-year-old and incredibly acne-prone skin, but I treasured it none the less.
I’m not alone in my love for the product line. Capture Totale Le Serum and its matching cream are some of the brand’s most iconic products, and cemented the brand as a frontrunner in the skincare space. The serum is way more than just a pretty bottle (though that and the brand’s signature light floral scent definitely adds to its appeal), it’s packed with science and innovation. The range debuted in 1983 with a bang—it was the first product to use liposomes to deeply penetrate the skin—and it gets an update every fews years to be on the cutting edge of the anti-aging conversation. This year, the line not only gets a formula refresh (more on that in a moment) but new sleek silver packaging, and a brand-new name: Dior Capture.
Ahead, everything you need to know about the new take on the iconic product.
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The Inspiration
Dior Capture addresses signs of aging like the skin’s firmness, as well as elasticity, and loss of radiance. Just like the previous iteration, Dior Capture targets the skin’s stem cells, but introduces a brand-new technology. “It takes [Capture Totale] one step further,” Virginie Couturaud, Dior’s director of scientific communications told Byrdie at an event celebrating the launch this fall. “It is the new era.”
This time around, Dior’s scientists were highly inspired by the field of regenerative medicine, which uses oxygen transport to improve skin quality. Working with the brand’s longtime collaborator, CiRA (Center for iPS Cell Research and Application) as well as the Dior Reverse Aging Board—a group world-renowned scientists specializing in the 12 markers of aging —the brand created a brand-new technology, OX-C [Oxygeno-Collagen] Treatment.
Patricia Ogilvie, dermatologist and member of the Dior Reverse Aging Board echos Couturaud. “If you look at the timeline, and the evolution of the Capture technology as it is now, it reflects the state of the knowledge at that very time about stem cells. So the first collection addressed stem cell knowledge, which was very very [advanced] knowledge back then…Now with new knowledge and new insights, this is directly incorporated in the next generation [of the line].”
Dior Beauty
The Science
To understand this breakthrough, it’s important to understand the role of oxygen in the skin. Oxygen plays a huge role in production of Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP), which is often referred to as the cell’s “energy currency.” Cells use this energy to regenerate and synthesize proteins like collagen, which we all know is crucial for bouncy, youthful skin. New Dior research finds that cellular respiration is compromised with age starting at 20 years old—and decreasing 40% between the ages of 25 and 90—which directly impacts skin regeneration and appearance.
Not only does a decrease in oxygen make it harder to produce new ATP, it actually promotes the accumulation of senescent “zombie” cells—when a cell ages and stops dividing, but does not die—which can accelerate tissue aging.“The body uses NK (Natural Killer) cells to eliminate aging fibroblasts and make room for higher-quality fibroblasts,” explains Couturaud. “When these cells receive an inadequate oxygen supply, they lose productivity, and aging fibroblasts accumulate in the tissues.”
This is where the oxygen comes in. The OX-C Treatment Technology is delivered directly into the skin, activating oxygen delivery and kick-starting collagen production for more rejuvenated skin. Per the brand’s in-vitro tests, cellular respiration is increased by 57%, epidermal regeneration is accelerated by 22%, dermal regeneration is boosted by 42%, and type I collagen production is tripled.
Dior
My Review
The collection’s refresh is launching with two products: Le Sérum, a luxurious anti-aging serum, and the La Creme day cream. In addition to the OX-C Treatment Technology, both the cream and serum include revitalizing lily extract, a new lily extract with proven activity on mother cells. Both products also include a pro-collagen dipeptide, which helps boost collagen fiber quality and quantity.
While I miss the baby pink packaging of my original bottle, there’s no doubt that the new silver packaging looks so chic, and feels luxurious and weighty (even though the weight of the cream’s glass jar has actually been reduced to be more eco friendly). I also love that the cream is refillable. As for the product itself, Le Sérum has a thin texture that feels immediately cooling on the skin. I’ve previously experienced pilling with older versions of the formula, but didn’t have this issue this time around. La Creme has a gorgeous silky texture that feels instantly hydrating and nourishing but not thick or heavy.
Wrinkles aren’t my top priority right now, but I did like that the duo made my skin look bouncier and more awake. However, if you’re acne-prone like me, proceed with caution, as I think it was the culprit for a recent breakout. But if you’re looking for cutting-edge anti-aging with gorgeous packaging to boot, you’re in the right place.
You can shop Dior Capture Le Sérum for $195 and La Cream for $145 at dior.com, macys.com, and dillards.com on December 26, and sephora.com on January 2.