Kyra Shapurji visited the Canadian alpine town of Jasper, Alberta, in July 2024, just weeks before wildfire devastated parts of the town, the national park, and the community. There has been a huge recovery effort to get things in shape as summer tourism is critical to the region.
We would like to acknowledge that the traditional territories in Alberta are home to many First Nations, Métis, and Inuit who have called this land home for time immemorial.
Where did you go?
Jasper, Alberta. Jasper is a tight-knit community of 5,000 residents and sits within its namesake national park. The town is deeply ingrained in the tourism sector, with boutique hotels, dining, and expedition companies. Almost a third of all businesses and homes were destroyed by the Jasper Complex Wildfire in the summer of 2024, and wildlife, flora, and fauna were altered. But this Canadian Rockies town is eager and beckoning for tourism to return — in a more evolved, thoughtful manner than before. They are building back in a regenerative, intentional way that is mindful of both the past and the future of climate forces, indigenous histories and cultures, and the environment’s needs.
Some of the businesses are still adjusting to a “new normal” and not operating at full capacity. Have patience and take care when visiting this area because the people and land operate as one. I can’t think of a better year to visit this spiritual place as it rises from the ashes and welcomes back all beings great and small from the tiniest tourist to the largest moose.
Was it your first time?
Yes! I had heard about the area for a few years in relation to visiting Banff, so I knew if I ever found myself in Banff, I’d make the time and effort to travel here.
Were you there for the right amount of time?
I spent three days in the area and could have easily doubled my time. But if you only have a long weekend, still go. Just go. The area is very special.
How did you get there?
Flew into Calgary, drove up to Banff for a few days, and drove from Banff to Jasper. The drive is deemed one of the most beautiful in North America, and rightfully so, with its panoramic views of the Canadian Rockies, miles of coniferous forests, sightings of black bear munching on roadside wildflowers, and turquoise glacier lakes that seem otherworldly. Invest in a comfy rental car for the drive, and be prepared for many roadside stops.
What was the best tip you got before you left?
To download the area’s driving maps and fill up the gas tank prior to the drive between Banff and Jasper. There’s only one gas station and spotty to almost non-existent WiFi for the entire drive. Second best tip is to go with the mantra: “ahead of time.” Due to peak season crowds, when in doubt, just book ahead of time for excursions, tours, and any passes. Oh, and charge that phone and camera battery ahead of time, too.
What did you do?
1. Planned for the three-and-a-half-hour drive between Banff and Jasper to take more like seven hours so that I could stop and see some of the major sights: Peyto Lake (it’s about an hour into the drive, which I did early in the morning to beat the crowds), and the Columbia Icefield Skywalk. The latter made for a perfect midday stop with a stretch of the legs and a quick lunch at the main visitor building’s cafe with a lookout to the icefield glacier.
2. Joined an evening wildlife sight-seeing tour in Jasper National Park with a caravan of 15 people and a guide who knows all the early evening feeding spots for elk, black bears, eagles, and moose. Yes! I saw a female moose. I felt like I clinched a win for the overall trip.
3. Drove to Maligne Lake for a boat cruise and visit to Spirit Island. Depending on where you’re staying the drive to the lake can take a minimum of 45 minutes, and the full excursion is around two hours. It is my number one recommended activity when visiting Jasper because of the glacial mountain views that are nearly 360-degrees, the Gatorade blue lake, and the palpable spirit inherent to the Stoney Nakoda First Nations’ land. I recommend a 2 p.m. tour to catch some optimal afternoon photographic light (you can grab a quick bite at Waffle Hut for lunch prior to tour take-off). Be sure to thank the moment in Stoney Nakoda language with an “ish nee ish.”
4. Kayaked on Lac Beauvert by signing up at Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge’s boathouse for an hour-long tour. The lake’s waters are calm and strikingly clear and make for an easy activity even for novice kayakers like myself. The mountain views are very scenic and you may even have a grizzly bear sighting, as they’re known to come down to the resort area.
5. Easy Scenic Rafting, with the emphasis on “easy.” This wasn’t a helmet-wearing white water rafting excursion, but more like a river tour with the guide taking on all paddling for the 25-foot long rafts. On a blue sky day (I got lucky because it’s a rain or shine kind of deal), coasting down the Athabasca River was a different vantage that I appreciated with the glacial run-off river currents creating a smooth ride. I definitely suggest wearing waterproof shoes or sandals and apparel, as there is a little bit of splashing.
6. I pushed past my typical bedtime to see some very expensive scientific telescopes and star galaxies at the Jasper Planetarium. Located on site at Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, it’s an activity worth doing if only because Jasper is a Dark Sky Preserve (DSP), the second-largest in the world. There are serious rules to maintain this astronomical designation, and with the help of the astronomers guiding you to find the specific stars, I learned why minimal light pollution and no visible artificial lighting is needed to maintain a healthy dark sky place. If you’re a NASA or astrology geek, check the weather for the best day and book this for some out of this world sightings.
This was especially great:
Not seeing gargantuan tour buses and large organized crowds. Since Jasper is considered a more remote, distant location, there isn’t a flood of raucous groups. The sights and parking lots can still get undeniably busy, but you won’t get stuck driving behind the annoying wide and slow tour buses.
But this wasn’t:
Knowing the time was limited, and I wouldn’t be able to see or do everything on my initial planned list.
Speed round of favorites.
1. Meal or meals: Does a local beer flight and cast-iron nacho platter count? Both can be found at Jasper Brewing Company. Celebrating their 20th anniversary this year, the brewery offers their own pilsners, IPAs, and a stout. Totally unexpected and worth a try, if you’re up for the experiment, is to add on one of the Wîsakipakos Indigenous bitters that include bark, flower, leaf, and medicine to your beer or cocktail.
2. Thing you saw: Spirit Island, without a doubt.
3. Casual hangout: There’s a Jamaican spot downtown called Estío Jasper with nothing but good vibes and smiling faces. Besides smoothies, milkshakes, and wraps, there’s also the chance to try a Jamaican patty or jerk chicken before a scoop of ice cream. I always go for cookies ‘n cream.
What’s the local specialty?
Elk anything — burger, meatloaf, you get the drift. Similar to our version of a bison burger, you’ll find it on any general lodge menu. (Warning for vegans and vegetarians.)
One thing/place you didn’t get a chance to visit, but wanted to:
I was hoping to take the Jasper Skytram, Canada’s highest, for a morning view and breakfast up top of the mountain. I’m also bummed I didn’t get to squeeze in any hikes like Bald Hills, Opal Hills, or Mount Edith Cavell Meadows. And I only found out about stargazing at Pyramid Lake upon arriving in town — and didn’t have a chance to check it out. All noted for my next visit!
Let’s talk about stuff.
1. Glad you packed: I’m tickled to have squirreled away a set of binoculars. These were incredibly useful on the evening wildlife sightseeing tour.
2. Wish you’d packed: Bells for backpacks and bear spray for hikes for peace of mind.
3. Didn’t need: Fancy attire. Restaurants are casual, and you’ll stick out like a sore thumb if you overdo it.
4. Brought back: Soft leather slide slippers found at the Maligne Lake gift shop.
Would you go back? If so, what would you do differently?
One thousand percent. I’d try to explore more restaurants and definitely fit in a couple hikes.
Any surprises?
I was surprised by how many young Australians were in this tiny Canadian town. They’re recruited to come work during the high tourist season across the region and province, but hearing their accent made me feel like I was in an alternative Aussie land.
You can’t stop thinking about:
Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. The 104-year old Canadian grand railway hotel’s location was perfectly central to many of the area’s activities and just a ten-minute drive from downtown. Many of the main lobby’s interior wooden details are still intact. I didn’t tote any kids with me on this trip, but for families and large groups it’s convenient to book neighboring cabins. Because the JPL is situated within the Jasper National Park, any and all construction and landscaping decisions for the resort are done in accordance and with approval from Canada’s National Park Service. I can’t stop scrolling back through my photos, and I’m still audibly sighing at the Lac Beauvert sunsets I captured on loop trail walks back from my lodge dinners.
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