History buffs who enjoy a back-to-the-roots wine perspective should consider Porto and the Duoro Valley.
In Portugal, we begin our travels in the city of Porto, a global epicenter of history, culinary tradition, and — yes — port.
Our home base is The Rebello on the Gaia side of the river. Housed in an extensive network of old factories and shipyards, the hotel offers stays that feel like apartment living. Miniature kitchens, comfortable seating, and balconies with river views allow guests to settle in a bit. Yet the perks of a fine hotel remain on deck: a stunning spa with a hydrotherapy room, rooftop bar with cocktails and live music, and excellent in-house restaurant Pot & Pan (named for the cookware factory that once existed in its very footprint). The amenities are a blessing in a city with no shortage of long, uphill walks!
A jet-lagged first night dinner provides our initial peek into the pride of local food and wine. Lemon Calabrian chili butter, breaded shrimp in savory banana sauce, and the country’s famous piri piri chicken coat our bellies while we settle in for a full spectrum of wine tasting. The hotel’s wine program offers an almost entirely Portuguese collection, and yet there is no shortage in variety. With each sip, we are regaled with stories of family connections to vineyards, daring revivals of all but forgotten ancient grapes, and a personal passion that makes us feel instantly connected to each staff member we meet. The hospitality and warmth is next level. As we make our way around the city, we are given little gifts: splashes of wine, recommendations for exploring near and far. This desire to share is an intrinsic one — several locals tell us that exploration is in the blood of the Portuguese.
In the spirit of giving, we compile a list of our most treasured food and wine discoveries to share with friends and family:
- post-shopping steak sandwiches at Pregar
- late night wine and charcuterie at Prova wine bar
- cachorrinho, a sort of spicy, cheesy, hot dog hybrid served at the counter at Gazela Cervejaria
- Tia Tia‘s dining experience in a chic apartment
- a seafood feast in the cozy alley at Taberna dos Mercadores
Of course, a trip to Porto is not complete without a ride down the river. Hop-on tours take place on both sides, but we find that it’s cheaper (and less crowded) to hop onto one on the Gaia side.
When it comes to tasting port: Big producers like Sandeman and Graham’s offer extensive tours of their facilities, but we are after something a bit more off the beaten path. Tucked far into the winding alleys of Gaia, we stumble upon Sogevinus Santa Marinha, where we try many varieties and ages of port during a private tasting — no reservation necessary. We learn that while the grapes are grown in Douro Valley, the port name comes from the town where the drink was historically aged and bottled.
Onto Douro Valley we go, venturing along the river by train to the revered Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo. The night before our train ride, we receive a note from the hotel about Ferrão station, where we are to disembark: “Kindly note it may look abandoned, but this is your stop.” This is no Napa Valley: Instead of developments and hordes of tourists, we find sleepy villages, terracotta-roofed wineries, and natural beauty recognized by UNESCO as a terrain only the most dedicated growers can tame.
And yet they do: Quinta Nova’s 85 hectares of grapes, spread across nearly 300 acres, are manually harvested to this day — the steep terraces of the hills prevent even modern technology from taking over. The winery takes its craft seriously, managing the old vines with horse and plow and natural fertilizers. Originally owned by the Portuguese royal family until 1725, the winery is now under the direction of the Amorim family, who acquired the operation in 1999. As stewards of this fabled land, they uphold its traditions while embracing innovation.
The brilliantly renovated production facilities still stand inside the original 1764 building but are retrofitted with modern interior architecture that mimics the natural landscape outside its walls. A steel staircase is lined with cork; concrete tanks sitting in stacks recall vineyard terraces. Steps away, the original granite grape presses are a focal point of the facility, restored and revived, used to mark each harvest. A museum on the grounds guides us through the history of the winery, including old production techniques, scientific approaches, and more. No detail is forgotten: even the corks are produced by the Amorim family. It is all too fitting to finish the day sitting on the tasting terrace just steps from the museum, taking in the hills, the history among them, and the tasting notes of the wines produced there.
While the winery visit itself is more than worthy of the journey to the property, an overnight stay at the historic Winery House is simply bliss. Part of by Relais & Chateaux, the home is intimate and charming with just eleven guest rooms. A short stroll through the grounds leads to a comfortable seat beneath an olive tree with a stunning view; a longer hike through the vines brings us down to a 17th-century chapel along the river. There are homey touches like freshly baked snacking cakes and tea in the Winter Garden room, which is appointed with floral couches and scenic views. Grazing a beautiful breakfast spread next to the hearth gives us a true sense of being guests at this fine estate, where we are free to roam and relax at leisure. In the evening, we float into the dining room of Terraçu’ for chef André Carvalho’s tasting menu and wine pairings. Modern dishes play in contrast with old wines, perfectly mirroring what Quinta Nova has so delightfully captured: a harmony of old and the new.
Know Before You Go
Portugal’s train delays can be frequent, and more rural stations may not have screens updating the train times. Your best bet is to download an app ahead of time to track train progress. (Don’t worry: The train is commonly held for connecting passengers to major destinations, like Lisbon.)
Other ways to reach the Douro region from Porto include boat charter or car. For a day trip, Airbnb Experiences offers a way to visit the region with a local guide and driver. If you plan to rent your own car, be advised that the region’s roads are rural and winding, so plan ahead with maps and an overnight stay — especially if you plan to imbibe.