As much as we’re digital-first around here, we love a good guidebook. By which we mean an actual, hold-in-your-hand, made-of-paper book. (We’ve even written a few ourselves. Our latest was an award-winner.) Among the best we’ve ever seen is the Monday to Sunday Book series, a deep dive into curated experiences in a single city, created by our friends Seda Domaniç and Sinan Sökmen. Seda, a writer and editor based between Istanbul and Athens, was the founding editor-in-chief of Vogue Turkey. Her husband Sinan is the founder of the boutique travel agency Istanbul Tour Studio. In this excerpt from Monday to Sunday Athens, Seda takes us on a spin around the Koukaki neighborhood near the Acropolis in “Nea” Athens.
ATHENS — Situated behind the National Museum of Contemporary Art (EMST) and along the upper section of Syngrou Avenue, Koukaki is a happening neighborhood that stretches toward the back of Philopappos Hill. Its name comes from Koukakis, a local artisan who once ran a small bed-making workshop here. Koukaki is alive with energy, featuring lively cafes, enticing restaurants, and inviting squares. Drakou Street is especially busy at night and serves as the neighborhood’s heart.
Lazaretto Square, though small, is a local favorite positioned by the Acropolis Museum. The little mulberry trees scattered throughout might have inspired the name of Little Tree Books and Coffee, a cozy spot for evening intellectual conversations and all-day remote work sessions. Visitors will appreciate the charming book swap at the lending library, adorned with chalk inscriptions, vintage knickknacks, typewriters, and delicious sandwiches.
As you explore Koukaki, you’ll discover some beloved culinary spots. Mani Mani, a pioneer in Greek regional bistros, offers delightful flavors inspired by the southern Peloponnese. Fabrika tou Efrosinou is another locals’ favorite culinary spot. Co-owner Giorgos Gatsos, trained in the art of monastery-style cooking, brings the healthiest elements of traditional Greek cuisine to the table, focusing on seasonal vegetables, legumes, artisanal cheeses, sourdough bread, and local olive oil and wine. The restaurant’s interior, designed by Serbian artist Gora, combines the charm of a traditional kafeneio with contemporary artworks and unique retro pieces such as the striking bronze chandeliers that once adorned the summer home of Josip Broz Tito.
Meanwhile, Strofi and Point A have become neighborhood fixtures, known for their stunning views of the illuminated Parthenon on summer evenings. For early risers, Takis Bakery is a must-visit, with an impressive selection of over 30 tempting varieties.
When it comes to drinks, head over to Drupes Spritzeria for a Greek twist on the classic Spritz. Just a short walk away, near the EMST, you can choose between the sleek yet cozy Kinono or the neo-vintage vibe of Bel Ray, which features a familiar logo from the tire lubricant brand. This spot was once a car wash and lubrication station, and inside, the illustrations by Nóni Nézi above the bar are sure to catch your eye. If you wish to end your afternoon with a sweet note, make sure to taste the all-natural ice creams and sorbets of Django Gelato. It is really hard to choose among many unique flavors — our favorites include pistachio and almond sorbets.
Don’t Stop There
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