With 75 wineries, vineyards and tasting rooms, plus 150 locally-owned galleries, boutiques and shops, there’s a lot going on in this thriving part of Texas Hill Country.
FREDERICKSBURG, Texas — It didn’t take long to see a theme on a recent trip to Fredericksburg, a Texas town of almost 11,000, two hours from Austin and a little over an hour from San Antonio.
My first visit during the annual Fredericksburg Food and Wine Festival introduced me to area wineries (they have a decidedly Texan feel), where I developed a taste for tempranillo, the dark fruity red wine that’s one of the area’s most popular varietals. The charming small hotels, many hidden amid foliage and flowers, stood out, as did the excellent restaurants. Most of all, I loved the refreshing fact that chain stores are nowhere to be found. Instead, an endless Main Street has individually-owned shops, many with a curator’s touch, and a warehouse district that mixes funky finds with high-end pieces, all with a sense of panache. In springtime, fields of wildflowers draw visitors from all over the country.
During my last trip, I noticed something new: a family feel permeating the place — not only in the way business owners regard the town and each other, but in the way so many businesses were started by families, are still run by families, and will continue that way as the next generation steps up, keeping a good thing going.
Intrepid German Settlers Set the Whole Place in Motion
Fredericksburg’s original settlers arrived from Germany in the mid-1800s after a grueling trip and a difficult arrival. Each family was promised a piece of land in town and a ten-acre plot outside town. They soon got to work planting wheat, corn, and grapes, building storehouses to protect their crops. Just 140 arrived in 1846, and by 1850 the town had 754 residents. It was the start of something big.
The German heritage is still evident today. Many residents are able to trace their families back to early times. An old-fashioned form of German, still spoken by older residents, is staying alive as younger people have begun learning the dialect to honor the town’s past. And a tradition of German cooking, seen in the local food and beer, further reflects their heritage.
Small, Charming Hotels and Big Done Right.
Fredericksburg has always been known for its appealing boutique lodgings. (A variety of Airbnbs are also available.) On my recent visit, I stayed at The Vine on Middle Creek, an enclave set in the middle of a picturesque vineyard. Owner Craig Fovel is one of those super friendly people you’re always happy to see, and his dog Zoe has as much personality as he does. My room was warm and cozy — so cozy it was hard to rouse myself out in the morning. But after one of their breakfasts, I practically ran to the common area for the fabulous, innovative morning meals served daily. My favorite was corn tortillas filled with creamy scrambled eggs, ripe avocado, thick, smoky bacon, and several grated cheeses. Salsa and a grilled pepper came on the side, as did an iced cinnamon bun.
My guest room included many thoughtful items — including a robe so soft I bought one, a faux fireplace that warmed things up in minutes, a fresh toothbrush, and a nice body scrubber. A soothing grey color palette, comfy bed, upholstered chairs, and a big shower and tub completed the picture.
For a close-to-the-environment experience, Honey Tree is a cool group of houses set the Texas hills. My house, reached after a walk down a dreamily lit little lane, had a vaulted bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows, a large rain shower, a kitchen fit for a small dinner party, and an upstairs deck with ever-changing views.
The big hotel news in town is the recent opening of The Albert in a combo of repurposed, historically-protected buildings facing Main Street. The new construction is tastefully tucked behind the original structures, and stylish touches abound, including charming metal signage used for directional signs and room numbers, made by a local foundry. There are 105 sleek rooms and spacious suites, and the circular, limestone pool is a work of art.
A big, beautiful curved bar (Dripping Springs Vodka and Still Austin Whiskey are local faves) welcomes guests to The Restaurant, where food by three-time James Beard finalist executive chef Michael Fojtasek blends local with elegant. I started with a Texas Sotol Sour made with agave, lime, pineapple, egg white, and sotol. New to me, it’s tequila-like, made from sotol agave instead of the usual blue agave. Dinner progressed with broccoli soup, creamed Carolina gold rice with a sprinkling of Fredericksburg flowers, quail, and sauerkraut spiked with celery seed and rye berries. (Yah, I went full German.) Delicious spaetzle with herbed aioli kept the theme going.
Kinship in Commerce
Every time I visit, I find appealing new ventures in Fredericksburg’s thriving business community, as well as companies that have long been successful, many of them family businesses expanding in creative ways.
Fischer & Wieser, a 25-year, family-owned business that began as a roadside peach stand run by affable owner Mark Wieser and is still in its original location. Among the 70+ award-winning jams, jellies, sauces, dips, and salsas that Mark and his partner Case Fischer make is perennial favorite Roasted Raspberry Chipotle Sauce. While there, you can shop for their products at Das Peach Haus, or sign up for a public or private cooking class. Private group dinners can also be arranged.
Case’s son Dietz recently opened Dietz Distillery next door where the excellent cocktails made with Dietz’s own distilled products include Hill Country Old Fashioned, with pear eau de vie, lime, orange liqueur, lemon, and simple syrup.
Of the many Hill Country wineries, two stood out on this trip for their full family vibes. At Narrow Path Vineyard, Tyler Turbeville and his father Bob have created a serene tasting room where their handcrafted, small-batch wines are served overlooking the vineyards. During our tasting with Tyler, Bob passed by, interjecting salient thoughts that always made Tyler smile. With tall glass windows and lots of light wood, it’s a pretty place to spend time, both indoors and outside.
Endocrinologist Dr. Richard Becker founded Becker Vineyards in 1992, and today they’re the largest makers of Texas wine. Paintings and drawings of family members and family friends adorn the winery’s walls and the beautiful labels. With its dark wood, fireplaces, big square bar, and elegant cellar, Becker has a classic feel. Under the expert leadership of Dr. Becker and his sons, it continues to grow.
Speaking of family, mine is made up of cast iron aficionados who collect vintage Griswold pans and care for them like beloved children. So I was thrilled to learn about Fredericksburg Cast Iron Company and get a look at their wares. During the pandemic, when Heather and Jay Mallinckrodt were looking to develop something new at their family-run foundry that specializes in making airplane parts, they retooled and started manufacturing the most beautiful cast iron pans I’ve ever seen. Not only are they nice to look at, but with a smooth surface and honed bottom edge, they perform far better than the classics. We toured the foundry as the couple’s adorable daughters were dropped off from school by their grandparents. “Made in Texas for family, by family” is the company credo.
The Best Brunch, a Mini Restaurant Empire — and Even More Cocktails
Chef Nury Lopez, her husband, and son recently opened the latest entry into the Nury Hospitality family: Fredericksburg Brunch Co. With over 30 years of experience, Nury started her career in Mexico and continues sharing her expertise. I settled on something pretty basic — scrambled eggs, biscuit, and mimosa — and it was all delicious. My friends ordered eggs Benedict and especially liked the infusion of gruyere. Before we left, Nury insisted we try the escargot appetizer she’s especially proud of. Each garlic-infused bite was superb, if unexpected.
John and Evelyn Washburne, the creative couple behind Side Street Hospitality’s restaurant portfolio, have infallible instincts for what the town is craving. Otto’s German Bistro does a great modern take on German cuisine, and their latest, Alla Campagna, inspired by the Italian countryside, serves pasta and pizza with Texas wine pairings in an 1870s building loaded with character. They recently opened Caliche Coffee Bar next door.
The family behind Chase’s Place was smart to hire head bartender Travis King, who creates memorable cocktails with “a reference point” from local ingredients like Garrison Brothers Bourbon (the first legal bourbon distillery in Texas) and Chase’s own dehydrated fruits.
Shops, Soaps, and Small-batch Italian Ice
Fredricksburg’s many independently-owned shops make for great shopping. I like the warehouse district’s home décor stores, especially Carol Hicks Bolton for its swaths of jewel-toned silk velvets and creative room vignettes filled with fabulous finds. San Saba makes soaps and fragrances with rich, fragrant Texas pecan oil.
Piccolina is the place for artisanal Italian ices. On a nice day, you’ll see many strolling with their popular Proseccolina in hand — a scoop of Italian ice topped with prosecco — so refreshing in the hot Texas sun. Dairy-free and fat-free flavors include pineapple coconut, orange vanilla bean, and blood orange hibiscus.
“Texas heart, German spirit” is the way the locals like to describe their town. With a deep connection to their heritage and a commitment to family and community, they live by those words.
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