Juxtaposition was the name of the game at Nanushka this season: past meets future, masculine meets feminine, organic meets structured. As Sandra Sándor celebrates the brand’s 20th anniversary this year, she views the fall 2025 offering as a meditation on her “refined bohemian” customer’s evolution, mirroring her own transition from young designer to mother and fashion industry veteran.
Sándor chose to revisit some of her favorite Nanushka looks of yore for inspiration, taking a special interest in the pilgrim collar. “We started off [with] an intuitive draping session and we placed this collar onto the different parts of the body,” she explained. Following her intuition yielded some of the highest payoff in the collection: when Sándor places the collar at the waistband of a column skirt, it folds over the hips like a blooming flower (which seems appropriate for a collection called Grow).
Although much of Sándor’s perspective is influenced by motherhood, she didn’t give in to overly feminine pieces, striking a nice balance between masculine and feminine. The strong-shouldered pieces (namely the pinstripe suit with the cinched waist) proved far more interesting than some of her de rigueur dresses.
This season, Sándor challenged herself not to rely too heavily on Nanushka’s trademarked faux-leather, Okobor, only using it in a sage green jacket. “We didn’t want to give a huge presence to it in the collection, but we still wanted it to be there,” Sándor said. The decision allowed her to show off her range (although it would’ve been nice to see some more color throughout the collection). As Sándor considers the next 20 years of Nanushka, hopefully she will bring more of that sense of risk-taking.